A Japan Experience: Week 2

Pre-Trip | Week 1 | Week 2 | Week 3 | Post-Trip
10 10 () Sunday, October 10th
10 11 () Monday, October 11th
10 12 () Tuesday, October 12th
10 13 () Wednesday, October 13th
10 14 () Thursday, October 14th
10 15 () Friday, October 15th
10 16 () Saturday, October 16th
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Week 2
10 10 () Sunday, October 10th
Early the next morning, a fellow Kimitsu group member and I left early for Kamakura, specifically to see the Daibatsu (the Great Buddha or Amidha Buddha), but also to walk throughout the entire temple complex of the area. While it was not as famous or magnificent as Kyoto, Kamakura was once the seat of the Kamakura Shogunate from the 12th through the 14th century. We took a train on Japan Rail and figured out our way to Kamakura. The Enoden line, which we needed to take to bring us to the train stop of the temple complex, had been shut down due to the heavy rains. We walked several miles to the Great Buddha (a 13.35 meters high bronze statue of Amida Buddha) as citizens swept the streets of the debris from the night before. The damage in Kamakura was relatively light, but it was much more extensive in more southerly areas of Japan. Eventually, we entered the Daibatsu (Great Buddha) area, on the grounds Kotokuin Temple. We visited the Hase Temple, famous for its statue of Kannon, goddess of mercy. The grounds of Hasedera offered a great view of Sagami Bay, where wind surfers sailed on the open water. Near the gounds of Hasedera is a cave, called Bentenkutsu, that contains hundreds of Benten (Benzaiten), goddess of eloquence (and everything that "flows," such as words and thoughts). After several hours of walking throughout Kamakura, my travelcompanion wanted to explore the area more, but I was ready to head back.

click images to enlarge or to play QuickTime Movie


the Great Buddha in Kamakura	Hase Temple, Kamakura	a QuickTime movie of Daibatsu

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Again, I figured out my way on the rail system and decided to visit Ueno (see map), a popular area in Tokyo that I had heard about on my Japanese language CDs. The National Zoo and the National Museum are in the Ueno area, and Ueno Station is one of Tokyo's largest. I decided to bypass these attractions and instead walked around Ueno Park and came across Shinobazu Pond. Shinobazu Pond is filled with lotus plants, with leaves comparable to the size of car tires. A young Japanese couple walked by and I asked what the area was called. Impressed by the size of the lotus leaves, I gestured to them, and meaning to say that they were big (okii), I used the word oshii (delicious). They laughed politely as I corrected myself. A rock band played in the distance as street vendors waited for buyers. I walked around the area and through a street market near Ueno Station. Thousands of people walked about, shopping for fish and seaweed and getting ready for a national holiday. I felt somewhat insignificant in this teeming throng of people in a foreign land, yet I was intrinsically aware of an indescribable sensation of belonging.

click images to enlarge or to play QuickTime Movies


Shinobazu Pond, near Ueno Park	a QuickTime movie of Ueno	another QuickTime movie of Ueno

I again got on the train and got off at the stop for Asakusa. Our first walk through in Asakusa did not allow much time for shopping. I figured that this would be a good time to purchase several souvenirs. Having missed out on the fun in the bleachers at the baseball game a few nights before, I took the subway back to Jingu Stadium. I was sure to bring my DV camera to record the crowd behavior by which I had been so intrigued. Several other FMFers were at the game as well, and we consumed the Japanese version of food appropriate for a baseball game: instead of peanuts, hot dogs, and beer, we had sushi, rice, and beer. The difference between sitting in the bleachers and sitting along the third baseline was enormous. I hardly watched the game, but I noticed how feverishly the batboy did his job. I changed seats several times to get different views of the game and the crowd. In one instance, a fellow fan wiped off the seat, still wet from the rains of the typhoon. [TOP]

10 11 () Monday, October 11th
Early Monday morning, we loaded our luggage onto a bus destined ffor Kimitsu City in Chiba Prefecture. Kimitsu City is across Tokyo Bay from Tokyo on the Boso Peninsula (see map). To get there, we used the Trans-Tokyo Bay Highway, otherwise known as the Aqualine, a highway that cuts across Tokyo Bay, and shortened our trip to Kimitsu by a few hours. Kato-san had arranged lunch for us at a rest area on the Aqualine. Our first stop in Kimitsu, was at the Reclamation Museum, where we had a lesson in making nori (seaweed). A man, who had been doing it for decades, showed us the steps of nori-making. Finely chopped seaweed, mixed with water, was spread thin onto a mat surrounded by a specially-designed frame. Each seaweed mat then hung to dry. The dried seaweed would be used for sushi or eaten separately. We finally arrived at the Hotel Sennari, a small hotel near the train station and bus station of the city. Having spent a week at the luxurious New Otani, where rooms go for ¥31000 (almost $300) a night, the Hotel Sennari, with its four floors, a manager who doubled as our occasional kbus driver, and perhaps three maids, was much more quaint. It was, however, our home for the next week, and the employees seemed to enjoy us staying at their hotel as much as we enjoyed being there. Everyone was extremely kind and helpful: the hotel manager drove home and brought in his own iron for us when the hotel's iron was unavailable; the clothes that I washed in the tub and hung on any available space were put on hangers the next morning by one of the maids; the manager who drove us to a karaoke bar and waited for us as we ate dinner one evening. Indeed, everyone who we met in Kimitsu extended their kindness unconditionally, and made our stay in their city a memorable time.

click images to enlarge


the Aqualine, Tokyo Bay	an Aqualine map of Kimitsu City	on the road to Kimitsu City	a Buddhist shrine near Kimitsu	statues near the entrance to the shrine signify the Year of the Monkey

preparing the nori	a demonstration in nori-making	hanging the nori to dry	Hotel Sennari, Kimitsu City	a view of Kimitsu from the roof of the Hotel Sennari

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10 12 () Tuesday, October 12th
On Tuesday morning, we met Kachiyo Koda, who would act as our interpreter in Kimitsu City.  Kyoda-san had worked as an interpreter for foreign diplomats and businessmen.  In the lobby of the Hotel Sennari, we also met Fumio Kitami, who worked out of City Hall as our liason for the trip.  He was present at almost all of the functions that we attended, and developed many photographs of us that he gave to us before we departed.  We also met Kiyoshi Tajima, a professor emeritus at Utsunomiya University. We sat on the bus together and talked about many things.  He seemed to appreciated my interest in the Japanese language and history.  Several weeks after I had returned to the U.S., I received a note from him.

Our first stop Tuesday morning was Kimitsu City Hall, where we had a meeting with the mayor and superintendent of Kimitsu, as well as other local government officials.  Many pictures were taken and formalities exchanged (several days later, we found out that our picture and a brief report was in the local newspaper).  Japanese meetings are often full of introductions and speeches, and this was no different.  Our representative spoke and expressed our gratitude.  Mayor Kaomei Miura read prepared remarks.  We each had to introduce ourselves as well, but in Japanese ("Watashi wa [state] no [last name] desu").  It was the first of many times we were expected to do this, and several of our group members seemed daunted by this.  It did become a source of humor as some of us stuttered or reversed the order of the words, but it tended to have a disarming effect on others.

Prior to the trip, I collected small items that represented my hometown so that I could exchange them or give them to any of our hosts.  A good friend of mine, the mayor of my hometown, Berlin, Connecticut, was able to secure some lapel pins with our town's insignia and name. I asked our interpreter if there was a way that I could give these to the superintendent and the mayor; she inquired about this and then asked me if I wanted to have a meeting with the mayor in his office.  I was taken aback by this, but I figured that this would be an interesting experience and a good story.  With a few minutes before the meeting, I flipped through my Japanese-English dictionary to quickly learn some words that I might need to use. At the very least, I hoped that they would appreciate my efforts to learn Japanese.  With Koda-san, I entered the smoke-filled office as the mayor, superintendent, and another official sat in their chairs.  I bowed politely and introduced myself.  Holding out the lapel pin, I stated that my friend ("watashi no tomodachi") is mayor (shichoo) of our town (machi), and handed them the pins.  They seemed grateful for the gesture.  The mayor kiddingly suggested through the interpreter that perhaps Berlin and Kimitsu City could have a mayoral exhange.

We left the City Hall offices and travelled to Chiba University, where we walked around the campus and then had another meeting, this time with several professors who talked about Chiba U.'s mission, accomplishments, students, and the like. At each of the official functions that we attended, one of us offered our thanks and expressed what the trip and their hospitality meant to us. At Chiba University, it was my turn, and I started with a phrase I had been practicing for quite some time: "Hajimemashite yorishoku onegai shimasu," which roughly translated, means something like, "it is a beginning, please accept me". I read the rest of the remarks in English and Koda-san translated. Later, several students, who volunteered their time, spoke with us about college life in Japan and being a student in Japan in general.

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Kimitsu City Hall officials, Mayor Kaomei Miura is at left	with Kiyoshi Tajima

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We returned from our day's meetings and rehearsed a few songs that we were to sing at the official Welcome Reception at the Hotel Sennari. Outside of the hotel, we sang Take Me Out to the Ballgame and Imagine several times; we must have been quite a sight to see. We were excited for the Welcome Reception as some of us would be meeting our host families for the first time. We entered the room to a round of applause, and Fumio Kitami opened the reception with brief remarks. I met Takashi Harada a few minutes later and we politely introduced ourselves. We were able to hold a conversation despite his limited English and my even more limited Japanese. I asked him how he was able to pick me out of the twenty of us FMFers. Apparently, he received more information about me that I had received about him and his family: he simply replied, "tall" and held his hand up in the air as if to measure. The food and sake and beer was brought out, and everyone in the room - the FMFers, the city officials, the host family members, and the educators - began to relax and enjoy the evening. I came to realize that a Japanese custom is to allow one's glass be filled, even if it is not completely empty. It is expected that the deed be returned in kind. This was a way to introduce oneself, but also to establish a rapport based on reciprocality (see Customs: Eating and Drinking).

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rehearsal for the Welcome Reception	Kimitsu City Superintendent Seizo Muro welcomes us

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10 13 () Wednesday, October 13th
Many of the Kimitsu group members would agree that our visit to Sotominowa Elementary School (webpage in Japanese) was among the top highlights of our Fulbright Memorial Fund Experience. It was a rainy day, and the students carried their brightly-colored umbrellas. They seemed excited for our arrival, and our presence surely was distracting. After a brief meeting explaining the day's schedule and how we would go about observing the classes in session, we were led to the first segment of the day. The entire school was present for a Welcome Ceremony in the gymnasium, and as we entered to a round of applause and Japanese and U.S. flag-waving, It's a Small World was played by the band on the stage. There were speeches by student representatives, the principal, and our spokesperson, and we each introduced ourselves in Japanese. We each received an origami wreath signifying peace and hand-drawn welcome card. The students showed us the movements of a group dance, and we joined in together. The entire assembly seemed to be student-led, and much time, thought, and effort went into its preparation. Most of us were speechless at its conclusion.

click images to enlarge or to play QuickTime Movies


arrival at Sotominowa Elementary School	scenes from the Welcome Ceremony	a classroom at Sotominowa Elementary School

QuickTime movies of the Welcome Ceremony at Sotominowa Elementary School

We observed classes, trying to be indiscreet, but finding it nearly impossible. I was surprised that the teachers did not try to incorporate us into the lesson; we found this to be the case at each of the schools we visited, and my guess is that the teachers were under instruction to have us see an "authentic" Japanese class in action. I was also curious about the differences in classroom management between the American and Japanese systems. This view, I'm sure, is influenced by my expectations as a teacher, but I was somewhat stunned at the number of conversations taking place and the seeming lack of attention. Still, when the teacher was ready to move on to another part of the lesson, every student appeared to be right on task. For lunch, each member of the Kimitsu group went off to different classrooms to eat lunch with the students. The students served each other lunch and cleaned up after themselves. The lunch period was followed by a school cleaning period, and the teachers and students donned cleaning clothes and head scarves, grabbed towels, mops, and brooms, and cleaned the floors, desks, bathrooms, windows, and other areas of the school. This was a daily occurence, and needless to state, the school was very clean.

click images to enlarge or to play QuickTime Movies


students serving lunch	school-wide cleaning	tea ceremony	group photo at Sotominowa

	a QuickTime movie of school cleaning	QuickTime movie of a tea ceremony

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Sotominowa, being a relatively new school, was built with a room intended to hold tea ceremonies. One of the teachers made the tea, and some of the students served us. The tea ceremony is extremely reverent, and it involves a series of respectful bows and meditation. One must rotate the cup and give thanks before consuming the tea; it is altogether a highly ritualized event. The students also took part in club activities, which included ping pong, badminton, handball, dance, and other activities. We joined in some of the activities, and the students seemed to enjoy our participation. Despite the wonderful day, it was tiring. With the rain having ceased but the skies still overcast, we posed for a group photograph before leaving.

10 14 () Thursday, October 14th
Our day at Kimitsu High School begin with an introduction by Masatomo Nagata, the effervescent and charismatic principal. At the Welcome Reception a few nights prior, he relished for his opportunity to give a speech in English, and he clearly delighted in having his chance at oration again. He then led us on a tour of the school, beginning with a physics teacher who had numerous experiments set up to demonstrate for us. He was quite the showman. We visited the classes, and we noticed how much more serious the high school students were compared to the elementary students of the day before. It occurred to me that the all-important college entrance exam was looming in the not-so-distant future, and much more focus was placed on study and academic performance. I theorized that the elementary school years in Japan are largely for becoming disciplined to a routine and realizing one's role within a larger group. The activities seemed to be geared toward this end. Even the club activities seemed to be more regimented: baseball, soccer, water polo, kendo. Although many students participate is these activities, there are few interscholastic sports teams, perhaps a victim of the increasingly significant exams.

click images to enlarge or to play QuickTime Movies


Kimitsu High Principal Nagata	physics experiements	a class at Kimitsu High School	attempting calligraphy	kendo class at Kimitsu HS

			a QuickTime movie of calligraphy	a QuickTime movie of kendo

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10 15 () Friday, October 15th
Our last school visit was at Obitsu Junior High School. The schedule for the day was similar to the previous two days: classes, lunch in the classroom with the students, cleaning, club activities. The students wore their activity uniforms, with different colors indicating different grade levels. Towards the end of the day, we attended a school-wide assembly, which was a vocal competition between the grades. Four of our group members were asked to relay their impressions of the school and of their singing. Before leaving, each of us received a koinobori, or carp banner, that are flown to celebrate Kodomo no Hi, Children's Day (May 5th). Later that evening, a group went to a karaoke bar with the assistant principal of the elementary school and several of the teachers. A much less formal occasion than the Welcome Reception and the school visits, we had a great time singing songs in a our own karaoke room. Walking home late that night, a group of Japanese teenagers, recognizing that we were Americans, tried to taunt us in English. Sensing the potential for a problem, I turned to them and said, "Watashi wa nihongo ga hanashimasu," which means "I speak Japanese." This seemed to put an end to the annoyance, and I was glad I spent the time during the summer studying basic Japanese phrases!

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classrom scenes at Obitsu Junior High School, including an English class and an outdoor science class			cleaning time at Obitsu

each of us received a koinobori	leaving Obitsu Junior High School	at the karaoke bar

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10 16 () Saturday, October 16th
Host Family Weekend [TOP]

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