A Japan Experience: Week 1

Pre-Trip | Week 1 | Week 2 | Week 3 | Post-Trip
10 10 () Sunday, October 3rd
10 11 () Monday, October 4th
10 12 () Tuesday, October 5th
10 13 () Wednesday, October 6th
10 14 () Thursday, October 7th
10 15 () Friday, October 8th
10 16 () Saturday, October 9th
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Week 1
10 3 () Sunday, October 3rd
Out of fear of long lines and heightened security in our post-September 11th world, my wife drove me to Bradley International Airport too early and I waited for several hours before the gates even opened. The flight to San Francisco via Chicago was relatively short, yet we arrived to the orientation in San Francisco too late to check in before the meeting started. With little too eat, but with a great deal of excitement, I listened to the presenters explain some of the experiences we to have were over the next three weeks. Dr. David Satterwhite, Executive Director of the Japan-United States Education Commission (JUSEC) and the individual mostly in charge of the entire FMF experience, addressed us first. He was followed by Dr. Robert Radford, Director of the Friends of the Fulbright Memorial Fund, who told us how we could earn ten credits from Seattle Pacific University. Three FMF alumni discussed their experiences, and each stated that they wished they were in our position. Months after the trip, I now know what they meant.

Being the Communications Coordinator for the Kimitsu group, I was asked to distribute and collect various forms and paperwork. The ten Communications Coordinators were also asked to have dinner with the Kazuyoshi Yamaguchi, Deputy Consul-General of the Japanese Consulate in San Francisco, and his wife, at the head table. My group had already thought that I was somehow connected to the FMF organization; this would only serve to further the notion. [TOP]

10 4 () Monday, October 4th
Sunday morning came quickly, and soon we were loaded onto buses for the ride to San Francisco Airport. As is usually the case with air travel, we hurried to get nowhere fast. The free time allowed many of us to get to know some of our fellow FMFers, and we shared ideas about how to spend the free time that was to be allotted on the first weekend. I used various travel guide books to map out a plan for a day trip to Kamakura to see the Great Buddha.

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San Francisco Airport	flight UA837

On flight UA837 across the Pacific, I sat next to an elderly man from Singapore. We exchanged pleasantries and sat quietly for the first hour or so of the flight. Eventually, though, we got to talking, and he told me about his childhood in Singapore during the Japanese occupation. He was forced to learn Japanese in school, and he shared with me many the concepts behind the Japanese and Chinese written language. We tried to converse in Japanese. I was inspired by the wisdom and knowledge of this complete stranger and the many things he taught me about Japanese customs and language in just a few hours; he seemed impressed by my basic understanding of the language. [TOP]

10 5 () Tuesday, October 5th
Approximately fourteen hours later, in the afternoon of the next day (a day was lost due to passing the International Date Line), we arrived at Narita International Airport near Tokyo, and were hurried through customs to a reception area. Here, we met Kyoko Kato, who was to be our Group Coordinator for the next three weeks. Kato-san was a very focused individual, and she frequently went out of her way to make arrangements for us in order to enhance our experience in her country. We went over some basic information, such as our stipended meal money, the hotel check-in process, and where we were to meet.

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Narita Airport baggage claim	Kyoko Kato, Group Coordinator

The bus ride from the airport to the Hotel New Otani is normally less than an hour ride, but because of rainy weather and the traffic, we did not check in until three hours later. Tokyo, the capital of Japan and home to more than 30 million people, would be our home base for our first full week in Japan. When I teach about Japan to my freshmen students, I make mention of the fact that Toyko is part of a megapolis, a series of cities in close proximity. On the bus to the New Otani, and on later bus and train rides in and around Tokyo, the megapolis sprawled in all directions; the buildings of Tokyo seemed to form one continuous urban skyline as far as the eye could see. [TOP]

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views of Tokyo from the top floor of the New Otani, including the State Guest House slightly to left of the image at right

Upon our arrival at the Hotel New Otani (see map), what seemed to be a hundred hotel employees, neatly dressed and smiling, welcomed us to one of the more expensive and well-known hotels in Tokyo. This was my first real encounter with the Japanese social customs and work ethic. Over the next few weeks, I would witness firsthand the effort that many Japanese put into their endeavors: valet personnel running to the next car, a hotel employee driving home to get his own iron for our use, a parking lot attendant running fifty yards to hand me a meaningless paper I had dropped. It seemed that what I had learned and taught about Japanese culture was proving true on a daily basis: the Japanese take pride in their work and appearance, they are concerned about manners and respectful exchanges, perhaps even a sense of shame drives them. Whatever the reason, one could not help but feel compelled to reciprocate the politeness.

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the New Otani (center) source: http://www.vacations.net/	the entrance to the New Otani	carp in the New Otani Garden pond

Later that night, local university students volunteered to take groups of three or four of the FMFers to a local eating establishment. This was our first venture out into the city of Tokyo on foot, as well as the first time for many of us to prove that our pre-trip practice with chopsticks was worthwhile. We each retired to our individual rooms; a very busy day was coming soon. [TOP]

10 6 () Wednesday, October 6th
Wednesday morning began with a series of orientation meetings followed by a bus tour of Tokyo. We passed the gated State Guest House and then made our way to the National Diet Building. This building, similar to the U.S. Capitol Building, houses Japan's bicameral legislature, or the National Diet.

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Dr. David Satterwhite addresses the October FMF group at orientation		loading the bus for Tokyo tour	the National Diet Building

We ate lunch at Sansada near Kaminari-mon (or Thunder) Gate at the outdoor market area of Asakusa. The restaurant was in the traditional Japanese fashion, and it was the first time we were required to remove our shoes and put on slippers. The slippers then needed to come off before stepping on the tatami mat in the dining area (see Customs: Eating and Drinking). I had a very difficult time sitting in the customary kneeling (seiza) position, and my legs quickly became numb. This would occur several times during the trip, but most of our hosts were understanding. (While eating dinner at my host family's home, my hosts, noticing my discomfort, brought over a bench for me. It was a kind gesture on their part, but it brought me a great sense of relief).

The market of Asakusa (see map), along the street Nakamise-dori, terminates at Hozomon Gate, through which many Buddhist and Shinto worshippers pass. Both Buddhism and Shinto play significant roles in Japanese history and culture. A large incense burner is just a few steps from the gate, and many worshippers wafted incense onto themselves before stepping up the stairs to the Sensoji temple to pray. Sensoji is also referred to as Asakusa Kannon, and is Tokyo's largest Buddhist temple. Most of the people milling about appeared to be Japanese tourists, and many took some time to prayer at the different shrines in the area. It seemed to be a rather nonchalant blend of piety and recreation, as if worship, although intertwined with many aspects of Japanese society, was not necessarily planned or an exclusive part one's daily or weekly routine, such as a Christian attending mass on Sundays. Many worshippers simply took a few moments to offer a prayer and went on their way. [TOP]

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lunch at Sansada in Asakusa . . .	. . . including miso soup, tempura, tea, and rice	Nakamise-dori market, Asakusa	Kaminari-mon Gate	Sensoji Temple

Hozomon Gate	view of Hozomon Gate from Sensoji	QuickTime movie of Asakusa market	QuickTime movie of Sensoji Temple

The afternoons session was a Kyogen performance, which was both interesting and amusing. Kyogen is a form of traditional Japanese entertainment, but different from Kabuki and Noh. The presenter, who was an American who had studied Kyogen for years in Japan, spoke of the history and trends of Kyogen theater. He also showed us many of the masks used in the performances, as well as how they can be manipulated to portray different emotions. Later that evening, a Welcome Reception was held. An incredible selection of Japanese cuisine was available, and several dignitaries made the rounds. White-gloved servers brought out platter after platter of food. Several of us made plans to go out into the streets of Tokyo to experience the night life. Being still dressed in suit and tie, and having noticed that many Japanese business men stayed out late after work with their colleagues, we decided that this would be our best chance of "fitting in."

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a mask used in Kyogen theatre	scenes from the Welcome Reception, Ho-Oh, Banquet Floor, Tower Building, Hotel New Otani

Later that evening as I got ready for bed, the tower of the New Otani began to sway. I lost my balance slightly, and then realized that an earthquake had struck. I was not worried, as I knew that the building codes in Japan, especially in the cities, were among the most stringent in the world. It wasn't until the next morning that it occurred to me that, for a building the size of the New Otani to have swayed, the earthquake must have been fairly sizable. News reports showed the destruction near the epicenter of the 4.9 magnitude quake, over 300 miles southwest of Tokyo, but indicated that nobody had died. [TOP]

10 7 () Thursday, October 7th
Today was spent attending several lectures and seminars. The first lecture was, in my opinion, the most thought-provoking, and much of the information that I originally sought for several aspects of my Follow-On Plan was garnered as a result. Dr. Tsutomu Kimura, President of the National Institution for Academic Degrees and Vice Chairman of the Central Council for Education spoke about some of the problems of the Japanese educational systems, as well as attempts at reform. A lecture about Japan's economy followed. An afternoon dialogue between Yuji Tsushima (who, as it was mentioned, may become Japan's next Prime Minister), and Wakako Hironaka was both politically charged and entertaining. Despite many philosophical differences and tongue in cheek comments by both Diet members, the level of respect between the two was noticeable.[TOP]

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Diet member, Yuji Tsushima and session moderator, Hiroya Ichikawa

For the evening, a group of us decided to attend a baseball game. Jingu Stadium, home of the Yakult Swallows, was several subway stops away, but was visible from my 12th floor hotel room at the New Otani. This would be the first time any of us would experience the subway system of Tokyo. At first it appeared daunting, but it turned out to be extremely easy and efficient. We took the Ginza Line at Akasaka-Mitsuke station, which was about a block or so away from the hotel. We got great seats along the third baseline, but the excitement was in the bleachers in right and left field. From the moment we entered the stadium, I was fascinated by the fan behavior. I knew baseball was extremely popular in Japan, but I did not expect it the crowd behavior to be so capitivating. The chanting, flag-waving, and trumpet playing lasted the entire game, but the fans only cheered when their team was at bat. I never noticed any rudeness toward the umpires pr attempts to distract the opponent. The fans had different cheers for different occasions: a hit, a run being scored, a home run. Being at the end of a losing season for the Swallows, the game itself was rather meaningless. For me, it was an altogether remarkable event. [TOP]

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Mt. Fuji with lights of Jingu Stadium	third baseline seating at Jingu Stadium, home of the Yakult Swallows		a QuickTime movie of the ballgame

10 8 () Friday, October 8th
In the morning, I attened a Peace Education seminar. Edward Jones, a senior researcher at Tama University, spoke about Peace Education, which "started out discussing the causes of war and the attempts of international systems to avoid war" (http://www.peace.ca/peaceeducationtheory.htm). The purpose of the session was to reflect Japan's emphasis on peace education, which " was originally defined . . . as ‘anti-atomic bomb’ education" (http://www.peace.ca/peaceeducationtheory.htm). Mr. Jones mentioned that the U.S. decision to use atomic bomb technology to end the Second World War is generally accepted in Japan, and debate about the event is limited. The general sentiment for many is that the fateful day was perhaps necessary for Japan to remove itself from the previous decades' militarism and harmful nationalism. Many in Japan feel that nothing constructive comes from hostility, rationalization, seeking revenge, or dwelling on the issue. To this end, a message of forgiveness, peaceful relations, and pacifism has pervaded Japanese culture. Koji Ikeda, a survivor of the Hiroshima atomic bomb, in a voice hardly louder than a whisper, told us his story of the morning of August 6th, 1945. He talked about his young wife and child, both of whom survived the blast, but were severely wounded. He seemed eager to share his story, and he never once demonstrated a sense of anger about what happened to him and his family. Then Migiwa Ishitani, daughter of a Nagasaki survivor, spoke to us. Her father was an advocate for Peace Education and had recently died of cancer, a result of radiation exposure from the atomic bomb. She haltingly spoke of her father's life's work and her attempts to carry out his mission. Ms. Ishitani hesitated for a moment and then offered, as a Japanese citizen, her sincere apologies to anybody in the room whose father, uncle, brother, sister, or any relative or friend who was killed or in any way harmed by Japanese actions during the Second World War. We were completely taken aback by her genuine contrition, and many of the members of the audience, already moved by Ikeda's account, fought back tears. The apology was in such stark contrast to what American culture expects. Migiwa Ishitani was not even born during the war, yet she felt so strongly the burden of guilt that she assumed responsibility for the actions of past generations.

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Koji Ikeda, Peace Education seminar

I was caught off guard, yet I came to realize the significance of her remarks. I immediately thought of the lesson I present to my freshmen students: we review a series of primary and secondary resources related to the decision to use the atomic bomb against Japan. The culmination of the lesson requires each group of students to come to a decision using reasoning from the perspective of various individuals involved in the decision-making process. It all seemed so trivial then, sitting in the meeting with a survivor of the atomic blast who had just recounted his tale and the daughter of a survivor who just apologized for her nation. It was altogether overwhelming. In retrospect, and in light of what we learned about Japanese culture over the three weeks, Migiwa Ishitani's apology is perhaps not as surprising as I originally perceived it to be. We walked out of the session somewhat dazed, and shared what we had heard with other FMFers who had attended other workshops. [TOP]

A Kabuki presentation, during which the performer showed us the process of putting on the make-up and costume, was followed by word of an impending typhoon. It was expected to make landfall soon and would have a detrimental effect on any travel arrangements throughout the country. While still in the U.S., many of us had made plans to take a Saturday day trip to Kyoto, a former capital of imperial Japan during the Heian period until the Meiji Restoration. It would most likely be cancelled as many of the country's travel systems were to be shut down completely. A group of us went to a used kimono shop and a popular¥100 store. At dinner, we ordered multiple items off the menu and sampled everything we could. As the rains of Typhoon Ma-On (the largest typhoon to hit Japan in years) increased in intensity outside, the six of us, having known each other for just a few short days, played a dice game, drank sake, and talked and laughed until we felt compelled to call it a night. By Sunday, Ma-on had left six people dead.

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Kabuki performance	news of the approaching typhoon

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10 9 () Saturday, October 9th
With the Kyoto trip cancelled, a group of us made plans to travel a short distance to the John Lennon Museum in the morning well before the most powerful winds and rain of the typhoon were to hit Tokyo. In addition to his marriage to Yoko Ono, Lennon was hugely popular in Japan because of his post-Beatles music, much of which focused on world peace. We returned to the New Otani and played cards in my room as we waited out the storm.

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scenes of the typhoon on television	the lobby of the John Lennon Museum

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Week 2

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